![]() I have tried Kreem, Eastwoods product and now POR15 is my sealer of choice as it covers better and makes a nice steely grey tank color.instead of a chalky white tank interior that the other products have.Even in indoor storage, if left for a long time in the large container in changing temperature there is a case where rust may occur in the fuel tank. I also believe that once you have cleaned the tank - it is time to seal it to prevent future rust. It can be used over and over until it wears out.then you can just throw it in your yard as it is a good fertilizer. This product makes the rust fall off the steel and works great - but it is more expensive than the acids. My most recent find are products like Evaporust that dissolve rust and are completely safe to paint and your hands. Most metal prep products that are used to etch metal prior to painting are some form of Phosporic Acid. Later I found out that Phosporic Acid is a better product for cleaning sheet metal. It is darn nasty and should not be breathed or spilled.however it is readily available at hardware stores. It comes in a gallon jug sealed in a plastic bag.and it is very concentrated. Muratic acid is a very strong acid, it is used for cleaning the slopped mortar and stains off brick. Later I tried Muratic Acid on a few tanks and it worked OK.but it is not advisable to do this on a tank that has nice paint you want to keep. My own experience along this line began with putting drywall screws in the rusty tanks and shaking like mad.and you would be surprised how many drywall screws can get lodged into the narrow seams of the tank.and how long it takes to fish them out with a wire or magnet. The Tech Section is reserved for proven repair methods and this one seems to be open for debate and is not really a "HOW TO" that is universally agreed upon. ![]() I have moved this topic from the Tech Section to the Rubber Side Down. Effective, yes, but much more damaging than naval jelly if mishandled. Isn't muriatic acid one of those chemicals that requires extreme care in it's use? I seem to remember some comments in other threads about how dangerous it is. The Muriatic acid will just leave bare metal. This is also why i do not use coatings like Kream. And no one knows how it will react to whatever they decide to put in the fuel next year. I do not know the effects of ferric phosphate to the fuel system. However, and this is a big "However." It does not remove rust, it converts it to black ferric phosphate. (Check ingrediants before purchase in case they change them.) The Naval Jelly will be harder to remove. It is also known as Naval Jelly, "Behr Concrete Rust Stain Remover," "Kitchen Kleen Lime Gone," and Kano Labs ExRust. Hence the instructions to use LOTS of water, and WD40.īut Phosphoric Acid may work, it just takes longer and more of it. Essentially it will only dissolve the oxidised metal (rust), and then be removed. You are not soaking the entire piece, only the surface and only for a very short time. You are correct, but it will only effect the surface. Your tank should now be rust free and ready to put back on the motorcycle. Flush the inside of the tank out thoroughly with gasoline to remove all traces of the diesel fuel. Shake the tank to make sure you have removed all of the BBs. If it's not clean enough to suit you, resume shaking until the rust is removed to your satisfaction. Open the gas tank cap and look inside the tank. The BB's will knock the rust, or any other debris, free and the diesel fuel will keep the particles suspended so that they will dump out. You can use a short piece of hose clamped onto the fittings on the tank, and closed off at the end with a bolt.ĭump the bag of BB's into the motorcycle gas tank and add the 1/2 gallon of diesel fuel. Also remove the low fuel sensor, if your motorcycle has one.īlock all of the holes in the motorcycle tank. If yours has one, you'll need to remove it. Some motorcycles are equipped with fuel valves on the gas tank. Refer to the owner's manual on how to do this if you have one, if not, you can apply these basic techniques: Unhook any gas lines, or vacuum lines, depending on the brand of motorcycle. Remove the tank from the motorcycle, if necessary.
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